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DUCKDIVING
First of all, you need the right size board. One that stands up to your belly button is about right. But since you probably can't just go out and buy a new one right now, practice your dunking in flat water on the outside while you're waiting for waves. Kick to gain forward momentum. When the whitewash or wave face is about six feet away, quickly grab your board about 1/3 of the way down the rails and do a pushup. At the same time, slide one knee onto the back tail section of your board. Just before the wave hits you, force all of your weight down onto the board trying to sink as much of the board and your body as possible. Keep your face close to the board and wait for the turbulence to pass over, then angle the board upward and pull your knee off the back. Your board should pop up. The key is to be able to sink your board. If your board is too big or you aren't doing the pushup right, you won't succeed, so practice in the flat water and you'll be ready to "dunk" the big ones!
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